The Beer Traveller

First stop in the great state of South Dakota was Crow Peak Brewing Company, just over the border in Spearfish, SD.  Like most of these small towns, I was getting the stares.  Probably doesn’t help the cause when I start snapping pics, asking questions, & taking notes.  Crow Peak is a quaint little place w/ a flatbead truck out front; I’m told this is the stage for the bands.

The locals dropped their guard & I actually had a good time talking with Aaron (bartender), Cory, & Doug.  Ended up getting a few beers after my sampling.  Crow Peak, like a lot of the places, is fairly new; opening 3/9/07.  I’m told that brewer/owner Jeff Drum is originally from San Diego…& he moved here why???  Not that it’s a bad lil’ town, but I’m guessing both the women & the weather is nicer in Sunny San Diego.

They only had 4 beers on tap & Aaron said Jeff is still tweaking the receipes.  Told me the 11th hr IPA is pretty much finalized & the Pile O’Dirt Porter is pretty close to finalized.  It’s good to hear this is an establisment of continous improvement.  The Bridalveil Brown was more of a one night stand & the Pile O’ Dirt should be Pile of Shit; it tasted burnt, not roasted. Neither one was undrinkable, but they could both use some improvement.

Regulars have their own hand made ceramic mugs (reminded me of the glass blown ones @ Madison River).  I got a full education, from Doug, on both why the price of hops is high & the history of alcohol, starting w/ mead.  I had never heard of mead, but it’s roots date back to 1700-1100 BC.  Later in the night I was hooked up (not hooked up with) w/ Andrew, aka .  I was asking about local campsites & Andrew offered to put me up for the night.  Sweet!

I pulled into Sheridan just in time for the WYO Rodeo.  Even though I didn’t go, the sights in the street were enough for me to realize I may be recognized as an out-of-towner. Besides my truck having out-of-state license plates, it’s also not big enough to run over a steer & it doesn’t say Chevy or Ford.  Once I got out, I realized I had Birks instead of ropers; shorts instead of jeans; & was missing a shield size belt buckle.

Sanford’s does not have a website so I knew very little about them; they did however get some very poor reviews (soon to add this one to the list).  There’e plenty to look at on the walls, w/ lots of wall flair.  The fries were excellent & the reuben ok.  Regarding beer…well they have a lot on tap although about a 1/3 is American crap (i.e. bud, miller, etc.)

The only reason I stopped was b/c they brew their own; well they were out of 2 of the 4 beers they carry.  I get stuck w/ a damn Raspberry & Amber; probably 2 of my least favorites.  Cloud Peak Raspberry has a terrible 1st taste, but quickly mellows out.  It’s a lot like drinking watered down Emergen-C.  Couldn’t find any evidence that this was actually a beer. The Amber wasn’t too far from unflavored tea.

It’s obvious that this place has no idea what’s going on.  The beer taps are 7 ft off the floor, the beer kettle looks like a 6th grade science project, & the service was completely lacking.  My bartender disappeared 1/2 way through.  A waitress started showing up, but she must have had her station on the other end of the block.  I finally got a bill, but no one to collect (after 10 mins).  Should have dined & dashed as the experience wasn’t worth a dime.

Both Bill from Bozeman Brewing & Tim from Angry Hank’s recommended Montana Brewing Company as one of the best breweries around.  They too had an outside patio, but the interior was that of an upscale chain (minus the flair).  Their beer was anything but chainy.

Cory was our bartender & even though he was on the younger side he had the skills of someone had had been doing this for years.  He went out of his way to run next door & grab a sample of one of their beers that they had run out of.  With the possibility of never again coming back to these places, it’s good to find someone that appreciates how important it is to try all of the beer possible.

Boy can these guys crank them out.  I rated 3 out of their 8 beers as exceptional.  My ratings didn’t quit match up with the beers that had won the awards, but they never do.  The Abby Ale, Malley’s Dry Irish Stout, & Two Moon saison were all amazing.  The Abby was extremely complex, w/o any conflicting flavors. Malley’s could easily compete w/ Guinness.  Two Moon wanted me to have two more; like a dark wit, strong & sweet.  I believe the brewer called in sick on the day the Fat Belly Amber was brewed; it was undrinkable.

Had the honor of meeting Steve from Scotland; he had just finished some business & was taking the next 2 wks off to travel around the US.  Appeared he was copying me in regards to drinking along the way.  He preferred the Saison while my favorite was the Abby.  It was great to hear a Scot call US Scottish Ale crap; how can you argue?  It’s like saying we also make good scotch.

Unfortunately like a bad beer, you also get a bad patron once in a while.  Craig “the asshole” will be getting his very own blog entry…

If you’re looking for the best brew in town, this is the place!

What an amazing place…where do I begin.  Angry Hanks is an old mechanic’s garage that has been converted to one of the coolest establishments ever.  Tim (owner/brewer) did an amazing job of turning an old piece of real estate into a prime microbrewery & it was obvious that he has a loyal following.

This was Mike & me’s 1st stop in Billings & we would have been happy if it was our only stop.  Three large bay doors open to the elements, an outside patio, & plenty of ventalatin was perfect for the hot day.  Angry Hank’s defines customer service.  From Trisha (bartender) setting me up at my own counter & labelling my glasses to Craig (regular) getting Marly dog biscuits & water to Tim ensureing we didn’t need anything else.   It was the hospitality that is lacking in most modern establishments.

I admit I was ignorant in assuming that MT was a lot like the south in regards to their beer tastes.  Craig, a regular since AH’s opened, soon proved me wrong.  He was extremely knowledable in AH’s beers as well as all the local breweries.

Not only has Tim set up a great atmosphere, but he can also turn out a good beer.  His Anger Mngt Belgian Wheat is sex in a glass.  The Smoked Porter will be smoking once the smoke is turned up & his Head Trauma IPA had the perfect amount of hoppiness.

I think I’ve done enough ass kissing.  When in Billings…or anywhere within 100 miles, stop @ Angry Hanks.

Lone Peak Brewery was a goal of mine back when I was here over Memorial Day.  Unfortuntately  I didn’t hit it than, nor did I hit it Wednesday as planned; we were too busy w/ Bozeman & Madison River Brewing.  It was now our (Michael & me) last stop before leaving town to start heading East again. 

Lone Peak is pretty new (opened in 10/07), but owner/brewer Steve has been around.  He was originally brewing for Frederick Brewing of Maryland, although both himself & wife are from my neck of the woods (Western WA).  Lone Peak is a clean & airy establishment that also throws out some decent food. Although we didn’t come here for food.

Steve’s brews reminded me a little of Big Sky’s; they were consistant & safe.  There were a few curve balls thrown in there that helped differentiate himself.  Buck Snort Porter was smooth & savory & scored an exceptional in my book.  He had brewed another 1/2 batch of his winter seasonal, Steep ‘N Deep.  This can be described as winter heartiness w/o the winter foilage of other winter seasonals.  None of the holly, spruce, or spice.

Steve’s favorite was another seasonal called Offseason.  This was launched 4/14 to celebrate yep…the Offseason.  It’s main market is obviously the locals & this is further supported by the fact that it’s only served there @ the brewery.  The Offseason is a product of several hop samples that Steve had that wouldn’t fit into any of his other brews.  A total of nine different varies are used.  Personally it was too strong for my liking; tasted like a bad barley wine.

Steve appears to have the perfect life.  A microbrewery in Big Sky MT w/ a cool wife, & a couple of beautiful children.  He also makes a good beer!  Perfect 19th hole or after a long day on the slopes.

We had just buzzed over from Bozeman Brewery to hit up this recommended brewery before it closed.  Madison River Brewery is about as easy to find as Mac & Jack’s.  Located in a warehouse in a street of warehouses w/ no direct driveway.

The place was still going strong considering they were suppose to close shortly.  We lucked out in that they had some live music, a group called Mountain Grip (Eli, Mark, & Bret).  They later donated a demo in aid in my travels.  Thanks guys!

The interior was much like the exterior; a warehouse.  The first thing to stick out was their mug club which was composed of hand blown steins.  Memories of the “water pipes” in college.  What better way to drink beer than a one-of-a-kind stein.  The beers were not quite as good as Bozeman Brewing, where we had just come from…but they did have a star.  It was the Hopper Pale Ale, an extremely floral Pale w/ a nice hop bite.  Every action beer has an equal & opposite reaction; this was the Yellow Humpy Hefe.  It was a little skunky, a little leftover, & a lot creamy.  Worst Hefe of the trip so far.

Howard (owner/brewer) was working the bar & did a great job of making sure our needs were met.  Madison River is a low key place w/ some cool glasses, & great pale.  The live music was a great touch. 

Bozeman Brewing was a complete diamond in the rough.  As we pulled up, it appeared to be this little shack of an office.  Neither one of us had ever heard of this place or tried their brews.  The inside was cramped, crowded, & dimly lit; everything one would want in a bar, but not what I had grown accustomed to in brew pubs.  We waited for some time as Mitzy (bartender) dispersed drinks like a 10 yr chucking candy @ a parade.  This wait proved valuable as 2 stools soon opened up @ the 8 stool bar.

Next thing I knew I was talking to pleasant fellow, named Stime, as if we had been friends forever.  Stime was obviously a regular as he filled me in with history, fav beers, least fav beers, & everything in-between.  Mitzy hooked Danielle & I up with 2 4-beer samples; this was necessary for the 8 beers they had on tap.  Samples were served on carved out downhill skis, keeping in tune w/ MT ski country.

Their Belgian Style Wit was by far my (& Danielle’s) favorite.  Stime informed us this was one of their most popular.  I had never experienced sip-by-sip commentary, but Stime was like having a Narrator for the entire drinking experience.  Their Hopezone IPA was also one of their more popular.  I was torn between Likable & Exceptional on this one, but finally choose Exceptional w/ some urging from Stime & Danielle.  The Great One was a Double Red that had an alcohol % I was told under the condition that it not go to print; it was Likable.

On the bottom of the list was a Hylander Scotch Ale which we all decided was undrinkable.  The Pinhead Pilsner was a step above that.  After fielding some of my questions that Stime couldn’t answer, Mitzy decided it might be best to just bring the brewer out.  Bill still had his Boston accent from his East Coast roots & was very forthcoming in all the information about his brews.  Not only was he open with his knowledge, but he also invited us to see the brewing facilities.  They have a fairly small process, but are expanding to more than double their current capacity.  A true testament to the skills that Bill possesses.

Bozeman’s Best!

Bayern was a recommendation by both Laurie @ Coeur d’Alene brewing & Mike, a patron from Big Sky.  Bayern is brewed & ran by a couple of Germans who brew traditional German beers.  I was almost immediately greeted by customer’s Michelle & Roberta.  They were obvious fans (of the beer) & took mercy on me for stopping @ Big Sky.  There seems to be quit the rivalry between these 2 places.  Has something to do w/ Big Sky’s Trout Slayer, which was actually originally brewed by Bayern.

Bayern now has an exceptional beer called Dancing Trout; it slays the slayer!  Although Bayern’s average (Likable) is the same as Big Sky’s, your really comparing 2 different beasts.  It’s a lot like comparing an American Automobile to a German.  Sure one is fairly reliable & not in the shop as much, but it’s also bland.  I think most would choose the one w/ a little more pizazz.

Besides the 2 ladies, I also met the gentleman who bottles this fine stuff, Dave.  He was a little more subdues in discussing the 2 breweries, but did have a few more of the facts.  Also met Chris & Kate, who were headed from Seattle to Chicago.  Um, same route as me.

Bayern has an outside patio & brews a killer German style beer.  This would be my first choice in Missoula, MT.

Big Sky always throw me off b/c I think it’s located in…you guessed it Big Sky.  It’s actually a fairly large brewery in Missoula, MT.  Inside was nice (what would be expected for a brewery of this size) & crowded.  I’m guessing the crowdedness stemmed from the fact that MT law states that manufacturers can serve no more than 48 oz of beer (think 3 pints) & Big Sky doesn’t charge for them.

Alix, the beautiful bartender, quickly came over and set me up on the end of the bar w/ samples of all their brews.  It was a quick process as they only had 5 brews, but an enjoyable one.  To sum it up, their beers are safe.  I ranked them all as likable b/c they were, but there really isn’t anything that stuck out or that I would consider memorable.

Ryan (patron) was with a group of friends that had biked there.  Like most places I go he was wondering what the hell I was up to as I snapped photos walking around in my Beer Traveller T-shirt.  Mike (another patron who owns a local photo shop) also made his way over.  Good news was that he was a total beer connoisseur & was excellent in giving me the lay of the land & where I should go next.

If for no other reason, stop in for the free beer.

Coeur d’Alene Brewing was to be my only Idaho brewery, considering the skinniness of this part of the state.  I’ve got an engagement (Geekapolooza ’08) in NY @ the end of July so I’m somewhat in a time crunch (i.e. can’t be zig zagging).  For everybody not living on the left coast, Coeur d’Alene is a beautiful city that is continuing to grow due to it’s resort-like feel; the summer weather is fabulous & it’s right on a luscious lake.

Upon entry I was met w/ walls of glasses (they have a mug club), an oval bar, & a window w/ a glimpse of the brew kettle.  After a quick lizard draining, I was graciously greeted by Ashley (bartender).  She was obviously bored out of her mind & said things were dead.  My kind of drinking; I can focus on my beer, chat w/ the staff, & not be at risk of losing my seat.  Also gives me the opp for some shameless promotion as I can repeat my website at levels to be heard throughout the entire establishment!

I love answering the question “what would you like?” with “I’ll take one of everything”.  The great thing about microbreweries is the fact that they just say okay & start pouring.  Not sure if Ashley didn’t know what she was doing, following protocol, or just fucking with me but she started me off with the 17% AV (advertised as 14%) Barley Wine.  Guess I’m accustomed to getting these at the end.  Surprisingly this went down as easy as a nice brown lager w/o letting you know that’s it’s probably illegal.

It’s a little overwhelming to have 12 beers thrown in front of you, but I knew I was up to the challenge. 

The Centennial Pale reminded me that their are some amazing pales out there.  There were actually 3/12 beers that I found exceptional; these included the Pullman Porter (which helped make up for their ok stout), the Lakeside British Ale (both mine & the brew master’s favorite beer), & their Scottish Ale.  This is one of the only Scottish Ales that I’ve really liked.  Some of the ones that fell lower on the scale (Drinkable) included the Golden Ale, Huckleberry Ale, & Vanilla Bourbon Stout.

Through my tastings, both servers Stephanie & Jenna came over to chat & say hi.  Stephanie was a fellow beer lover & we were able to trade notes on their beverages.  Kylie, their sales manager, also stopped by.  She had managed to regurgitate the brewery’s story, get a brief glimpse of mine, & exchange business cards before I even knew what was going on.  The highlight would have to be the brewmaster Laurie, who not only made himself available, but also gave me a full tour.

Laurie is old school & learned to brew beer without getting a degree in it.  He’s been w/ the brewery for over 20 yrs & will soon be retiring.  During the tour, Laurie provide me with my 1st unofficial education in beer making.  I was also shown their bottling facility, which is the largest one outside of NY, that is still from the 1940’s.  It was originally for soda bottling (which is much less of an art) & had to be  re-engineered to work w/ the good stuff.  Beer bottling can’t have any air or else it goes bad in about 2 wks.

Thanks again to everyone @ Coeur d’Alene for some good conversation & some excellent beers.